nationalreview | “Well, you try paying that much for a case of pop,” says the
irritated proprietor of a nearby café, who is curt with whoever is on
the other end of the telephone but greets customers with the perfect
manners that small-town restaurateurs reliably develop. I don’t think
much of that overheard remark at the time, but it turns out that the
local economy runs on black-market soda the way Baghdad ran on
contraband crude during the days of sanctions.
It works like this: Once a month, the debit-card accounts of those
receiving what we still call food stamps are credited with a few hundred
dollars — about $500 for a family of four, on average — which are
immediately converted into a unit of exchange, in this case cases of
soda. On the day when accounts are credited, local establishments
accepting EBT cards — and all across the Big White Ghetto, “We Accept
Food Stamps” is the new E pluribus unum – are swamped with locals using
their public benefits to buy cases and cases — reports put the number at
30 to 40 cases for some buyers — of soda. Those cases of soda then
either go on to another retailer, who buys them at 50 cents on the
dollar, in effect laundering those $500 in monthly benefits into $250 in
cash — a considerably worse rate than your typical organized-crime
money launderer offers — or else they go into the local black-market
economy, where they can be used as currency in such ventures as the
dealing of unauthorized prescription painkillers — by “pillbillies,” as
they are known at the sympathetic establishments in Florida that do so
much business with Kentucky and West Virginia that the relevant
interstate bus service is nicknamed the “OxyContin Express.” A woman who
is intimately familiar with the local drug economy suggests that the
exchange rate between sexual favors and cases of pop — some dealers will
accept either — is about 1:1, meaning that the value of a woman in the
local prescription-drug economy is about $12.99 at Walmart prices.
Last year, 18 big-city mayors, Mike Bloomberg and Rahm Emanuel among
them, sent the federal government a letter asking that soda be removed
from the list of items eligible to be used for EBT purchases. Mayor
Bloomberg delivered his standard sermon about obesity, nutrition, and
the multiplex horrors of sugary drinks. But none of those mayors gets
what’s really going on with sugar water and food stamps. Take soda off
the list and there will be another fungible commodity to take its place.
It’s possible that a great many cans of soda used as currency go a long
time without ever being cracked — in a town this small, those selling
soda to EBT users and those buying it back at half price are bound to be
some of the same people, the soda merely changing hands ceremonially to
mark the real exchange of value, pillbilly wampum.
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